
OUR short holiday in Taipei was kind of impromptu, although my sisters and I have been talking about going on a trip together for ages. We wanted an easy trip, and Taipei turned out to be an incredibly easy and uncomplicated city. It is not a flashy big city, but they’ve got all the important things right – an efficient public transportation system, clean streets and toilets, modern shopping malls and shopping streets, nice restaurants and good street food.
Most importantly, the Taiwanese are so polite and friendly. It’s easy to get help with directions, and service in the airport, bus and MRT station, restaurants and shops are pleasant and efficient. It’s just such a refreshing change to be able to ride in taxis without worrying about exorbitant fares and dishonest drivers.
So, even though it rained the entire three days we were in Taipei, it wasn’t a dampener at all. I wasn’t able to do much photography, but the rain didn’t stop us from shopping, eating, doing some sightseeing, and…. more eating. You must like Chinese food, and be somewhat Chinese-literate – I think – to be able to enjoy Taipei’s street grubs. The cuisine here is closer to Hokkien food than the more well-known and easier to accept Cantonese offerings that Hong Kong is famous for.
We had dinner at Taipei’s world renowned Din Tai Fung on our first night. We had to wait an hour for a table, but it wasn’t too bad because the restaurant was at the basement of the Sogo departmental store. But apart from that, we ate mostly at street stalls and small restaurants. Often, we just walked into restaurants that looked well patronised.


I like the simple lunch we had at this small restaurant on a side street near this building everyone goes to buy fabric for crafts. They serve zha jiang mien – noodles with minced meat and fermented bean paste – with side dishes. We basically looked at the tables around us and pointed at dishes that appealed to use – like the tender braised pork cheeks at the top of the page. That dish whtted our appetite for more, and we ordered liver, intestines, pickled cucumber, lettuce in garlic oil and even braised hard-boiled eggs. Wish we had room for the house specialty of ikan bilis, and pickled eggplants.


In between the meals and snacks, we shopped some, visited the National Palace Museum and joined the cheerful crowd at the weekend flower market. Shopping isn’t all that exciting in Taipei, but I do love the mall that sells fabric for craft and interiors. My sisters read Taiwanese DIY magazines, and it was one of the reasons they wanted to go to Taipei. Prices of the cotton fabric is much cheaper – about RM16/metre compared to RM29/metre that we get here and online. They follow Japanese trends, so the designs are diffrent from American cotton.
And like in most Asian cities, Taipei’s streets stay busy well into the wee hours. We stayed close to Ximending – where Taipei’s young people hang out, and found ourselves there every evening, rain or not. There are loads of shops and restaurants here. We had supper here – mien xian or starchy vermicelli one evening, duck noodles with roast goose another evening and fish ball noodles on the last night.
Most people recommend the night markets for street snack food, but they were not my favourite eating haunts. The only snack food I like is Taiwanese sausage, but I can pass on the rest – even the famous fried boneless chicken at the Shilin night market. The Taiwanese’ definition of night market is different from ours – the Shilin night market for instance turned out to be a huge indoor food court. There is a huge variety of food here, but it is also crowded and the ventilation not that great.
But even when the food stalls are congregated outdoors on the street, we won’t do night markets on our future trips because we simply couldn’t stand the smell of stinky tofu. It seemed like there was a stinky tofu stall every few yards, and my youngest sister and I have an aversion to its nauseating stink.
I like the food court in Taipei’s landmark skyscraper 101. There is a huge selection, and prices are much cheaper than in KL. I doubt the food here is the best in Taipei, but it’s got a nice atmosphere. My favourite here is the bubble milk tea from the Coca stall. I love the bubble milk tea in Taipei – the pearls’ texture is firm and yet chewy, and the milk tea is so fragrant. It’s what I crave for most when I got home, and luckily a friend bought me bubble milk tea from Gongcha – a very fancy one with melon tea and black jelly on top of the pearls.
We were also taken by western food set here – they have all the works; pasta, meat, fries, pie and even a fried egg. We didn’t try the western food at 101, but we ate a steak served with pasta at the Shilin night market. The steak wasn’t too bad, and it was a generous cut for only RM15.
My favourite meal this trip though was trotters stewed till the meat is tender and the fat melts in the mouth. It is very popular; bloggers recommend this restaurant and they actually have containers and boxes for takeaways. If you buy more than a certain amount, they’d even deliver to the hotel. We also tried pig’s brain soup which was way better than the steamed version my grandma used to feed me before exams until I wised up. This was too decadent a meal, and I suspect all that fat is lodged permanently round my thickening waist.

I love my trip to Taipei, and I knew I had eaten well because I didn’t miss Malaysian food at all. And when I was back, I actually craved for zha jiang mien. I first learnt to make zha jiang mien when we did a story on Datuk Seri Ng Yen Yen’s favourite Chinese New Year treat. Her mother is from Beijing, and zha jiang mien is also a staple there as well as in Korea. She specifically told me that the best yellow bean paste to use is the Angel brand. In Datuk Seri Ng’s family, they serve zha jiang mien with the minced meat sauce, julienned cucumber and carrots, blanched bean sprouts, chives and … raw cloves of garlic.
I serve two versions – with and without vegetables. My daughter wouldn’t touch the cucumbers and carrots, and would only have hers with meat sauce. Getting her to eat anything remotely green is a battle I lose, but I figured she gets her vitamins from fruits anyway. The recipe is in our column in today’s StarTwo.

My trip also got me curious to try the recipe for the Taiwanese classic dish three-cup chicken. I cooked it in a claypot because that’s what most people recommend.

RECIPE
Three-cup Chicken
1/2 cup sesame oil
2 inches young ginger, sliced
2-3 cloves garlic, chopped
3 chicken thigh and drumsticks, cut into medium pieces
1/2 cup Chinese wine
1/2 cup light soya sauce
a pinch of sugar
5-6 stalks Thai basil
In a claypot, heat up the sesame oil. Fry the ginger and garlic till fragrant.
Then add the chicken, and fry over high heat for about 5 minutes.
Add the Chinese wine soya sauce and sugar.
Leave to simmer gently till the chicken is cooked.
Then add the Thai basil