Posts Tagged ‘Sarawak’

Ikan Terubuk Masin (Salted Terubuk Fish)

Saturday, July 17th, 2010

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The busiest section at the Satok weekend market in Kuching, Sarawak is at the fish section, and there is only one fish that everyone is interested in – terubuk. It’s known mostly for its bones – loads and loads of fine bones criss-crossing – but those in the know patiently pick through because the reward is firm, tender, fatty, sweet flesh. It’s also found in Peninsular Malaysia, but terubuk is synonymous with Sarawak.

I had my first terubuk fish from a Ramadhan bazaar – grilled till charred, and accompanied with sambal. It’s also really good in asam curry because of its high lemak content. In Kuching, I have had it steamed and deep-fried. But the most famous way of preparing terubuk in Sarawak is by salting it. At the Kuching airport, you’ll see travellers with boxes fashioned like a bag, complete with raffia handles, and chances are they are carrying ther precious cargo of salted terubuk fish.

satok - terubuk masin

I have heard of the salted terubuk from Satok but was never particularly interested because I assumed it was the typical salted fish. It wasn’t until I went to the Satok market that I realised the fish is salted differently. The usual way of salting fishes in Malaysia is by salting them, and then drying them in the sun for days. In Sarawak, they gut and clean the terubuk fish, and then liberally rub it with fine salt. The traders’ instructions was to just wash off the salt, and freeze the fish if we do not cook it within a week. Most people just fry the salted terubuk fish, but some also steam it.

The salted terubuk taste like salt baked fish… it’s not intensely salty like the typical dried salted fish, but a lot gentler. Because the terubuk is so rich and lemak, the salt does not overwhelm its sweetness but complements it. The flesh remains moist and tender, and it is quite a treat. Now I understand why the customers at the Satok market buys the salted terubuk so eagerly, and why they place such huge orders.

I only bought 3 salted terubuk fishes, even as I was wondering why the others were buying by the dozens. The salted terubuk comes in various sizes, so prices vary. But we found out that the Sunday prices are a lot steeper than the weekday prices, just so you know. The vendors here also sell terubuk fish roe, and (frozen) unsalted terubuk fish with and without roe. My colleague paid RM25 for an unsalted terubuk fish with roe, but there was no roe to be found when she cut open the fish….again, just so you know.

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Luckily, the vendors were a lot more reliable when it came to recommending their favourite way of eating salted terubuk. I just sliced some shallots, bird’s eye chilli and squeezed lime juice over them. Let this mixture sit fir ten minutes, and pour over the hot fried salted terubuk. I have also found that I prefer lime juice to kalamansi lime juice for this fish.

I also had with an accompaniment made of belimbing buluh (carambola), garlic and taucheo, and that was also really good. Salted or not, the terubuk is still full of bones. They are mostly fine fine bones though, so I just pick out whatever I can, and chew on the rest. With terubuk, it’s all about how willing you are to get through the bones to get to the bounty.

Satok Market, Kuching, Sarawak

Tuesday, June 29th, 2010

The narrow lanes in the Satok weekend market in Kuching, Sarawak (a state in East Malaysia in Borneo) are crowded, and it gets really hot under the colourful canopies. But I’d not miss going to the market, which opens every Saturday and Sunday, as it’s the best place to find Sarawak’s food produce, handicrafts and knick knacks.

pineapples
The sweetest pineapples are of course found in Sarawak

Ducklings
At the livestock section, you can buy everything from these cute ducklings to puppies to Siamese cats

The market is divided into different sections – wet market, dry market, plants and pets section, clothes and shoes section etc. It’s not that big, so it’s easy enough to meander from lane to lane.

For locals, the weekend market is where they come for ingredients from other parts of Sarawak. There are jungle produce like ferns, bamboo shoots, yam shoots, roselle, herbal roots and honey. There are also dried and preserved food like shrimp paste, cincaluk and smoked fish.

Smoked fish
Smoked fish is a local specialty, and not many know how to make this

Paku pakis
Fern shoots – delicious simply stir-fried with garlic or with sambal belacan

I love the market because so many of the produce sold are foreign to me. I didn’t buy much because we didn’t have access to a kitchen in Kuching, but I tried what I could there. I bought ikan terubuk asin (which I’ll blog about later), roselle (next blog) and Sarawak laksa paste.

Keranji Madu
Keranji madu, tamarind fruits which are encased in a hard shell. The thin flesh is sweet, and are hardly found outside of Sarawak.


Fresh bamboo shoots at Satok

Gula apong
Sarawak’s version of palm sugar, gula apong

cincaluk
Cincaluk is delicious with a squeeze of lime and chilli padi

Sambal Melanau + Stir-fried Bean Sprouts

Thursday, December 10th, 2009

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We were not expecting good food during our trip to Mukah, Sarawak years ago. A colleague, Diana Rose, had opened a homestay in her hometown, and we thought it’ll be all sago and pepper. Then again, we knew next to nothing about Sarawakian food except for Sarawak laksa and kolok mee in Kuching.

It turned to be a delightful gastronomic trip – we had everything from the yummy sago maggots (it’s all fat and it’s deep-fried) to linut (a starchy literally glue-like translucent mixture that you twirl around a stick and dip in sambal) to umai (raw fish in lime juice with sliced shallots and chillies).

Then, there was the sweet sweet pineapples. I am usually a little wary of pineapples because they gigit the gums, but the Dalat pineapples we had were out of this world. I don’t think I have had such sweet pineapples since that Mukah trip.

There was a brillant cook at Diana’s homestay, and we had the best meals. We had rice and dishes, and one of the first condiments we savoured at his table was his sambal to accompany the fried fish.

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His sambal whets the appetite, and is substantial as it has ikan bilis. The ingredients are also easy to find, so it’s not hard to make. I made it during a camping trip to Belum, Perak. Everyone else had gone hiking, and we were staying in an island away from shops and kopi tiams.

There wasn’t much in the kitchen, but there were chillies, shallots, ikan bilis, and limes. It was enough for me to make my sambal because there was also a portar and mestle. And just like that, our plain meal of rice and fried fish was transformed into a feast with this humble sambal.

And that is why I chose to highlight this recipe for our cooking column in The Star on Monday.

I used the small white ikan bilis because that was all I had. But it’s much much better with the bigger ikan bilis as they are much tastier. A colleague who went with us on the Mukah trio said that his mother used to make him the sambal with ikan bilis left over from making stock for his toddler’s porridge.

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Anyway, here’s the recipe again

Sambal Melanau

4-5 red chillies

2-3 shallots

1 clove garlic

50g ikan bilis, washed and drained

5cm belacan, roasted

Juice of 1 kalamansi lime

Salt and sugar, to taste

Pound all the ingredients, except the lime juice, until fine. Add the lime juice, and mix well.

The sambal goes nicely with Bean Sprouts Stir-fried with Tofu and Shrimps

Recipe

3 tablespoon of cooking oil
1 square tofu, sliced
2-3 cloves of garlic, chopped
10-15 prawns, shelled
200g bean sprouts, clean and remove the tails
2 stalks of spring onion, cut the same length as the beansprouts
salt, to taste

Heat 2 tablespoons of the cooking oil, and fry the tofu slices. Set aside.
Heat the remaining cooking oil, and saute the garlic till fragrant.
Then, add the prawns and stir quickly.
Turn up the heat, and add the bean sprouts.
Sprinkle a little water (don’t drown the beansprouts), and stir.
Do not cook too long or the beansprouts would lose their crunch.
Add salt, and the spring onion just before removing from the wok.

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